This is my original pattern, from which I made the light leather quivers. Note the cuts at the top, and the length of the top piece. On this pattern, if you want fringe on the front of your quiver, you cut the whole pattern. if you don't you trim off the top part of the projection and cut at the inner line.

The cutouts at the corners allow for the folding over of the end flaps to the inside. Dennis avoided the folding over by glueing extra pieces of leather inside. I find it simpler to work with one piece.

On my pattern, if you want the fringe, this piece must hang to the front. If you don't, then you will want to fold the top edge over to the back, so that the seam fold doesn't show. This can get confusing, as it changes the quiver from right to left handed! Make sure before you cut that the finished folded leather is going to end up with the correct side out!

 

Dennis' pattern is based on a pure rectangle. I think a slightly tapered quiver looks a little better so I made a new pattern, starting with a pure rectangle and then tapering it by meauring in 1" on each side of the end.

 

 

 

This picture and the next are instructions I printed on the pattern for future reference. If you use broadheads, you'll want a longer leather flap for inside protection from the sharp edges. This isn't important to me, becuase I don't hunt and the only time I use broadheads is for the NALS shoot, where they insist that they be dull.

 

This is just to keep me from accidentally making a left handed quiver... which I did at the start of this project.

 

Here's the pattern cut from the leather. Again, not the corner trims at the foldover. I'm rather math challenged and ended up cutting this quiver a bit short, hence the small bottom foldover... still will work fine, though for my purposes.

 

Here I've folded over the bottom edge, double stitched the inside edge down, and then single stitched the fold. This is actually the second quiver, and you'll note that I made the flap longer. I then repeated the same operation on the top flap... double inner seam and single seam on the fold.

Remember, anywhere I machine stitched, you can lace or handsew with a leather awl and sinew.

 

Here I've folded over the bottom end and stitched it closed.

 

Dennis seamed his design at the bottom, which is certainly a lot easier both in the measuring and in the doing. However, I like my arrows to be resting on a gentler, curved bottom, not in a sharp seam. Here I'msqueezing the top shut. You can see how much sharper the bottom where the arrows rest, would be if I were making it the other way around.

 

 

Here's the quiver with some arrows in it to demonstrate what I'm talking about. At this point I'm just holding the top shut. It isn't sewn yet.

 

 

OK... using some care, I folded the top over, with a dowel inside, to be sure I didn't stitch it to tight. I scribed a very light line, then used spring clamps to hold the folded top over and double stitched it down. Note how I trimmed the corner so I wouldn't have to sew over the end fold.

Having learned my lesson by accidentally making a left handed quiver first, I was very careful to get my foldover right when I cut the leather. Here you're looking at the back of the right handed quiver. This seam edge will be toward the wearer's body and not show. (Right handed wearer wearing quiver on left side.)

Here's the front of that top seam.

 

 

Here are the two finished quivers... one shorter, one longer. I have a very short draw and sometimes shoot 26" arrows, but have been kind of standardizing on 28" becuase I found a good spine match at that length and can duplicate it readily, producing wood arrows that work well in about ten different bows of similar weight.

 

 

Here's aonther shot of a "finished" quiver... at least the hard part is finished.

 

I was contemplating having a pouch and knife sheath on my quiver and tried setting them on the quiver to see what it would be like...

 

Another variation. I decided to go with the pouch, but not with the sheath. I always have a knife in my pocket anyway, and I decided it was an unnecessary complication. I like the smaller pouch better, but it turned out to be much harder to mount on the quiver, and wasn't big enough to really hold what I wanted in it.

 

 

OK... now to attach straps and the pouch. Here's a tip. Some like this quiver to ride level, others like it to tilt downward, which is what I prefer. Use a couple of large bulldog clips and attach them to the top with the rod in, then find where they should be to make the quiver ride where you want it. That's where you'll want your strap notches. As I said, I like my quiver to ride at an angle, so I attach the front strap pretty close to the front of the quiver. Here I've cut a simple notch.

 

 

And here I've cut both notches.

 

 

In keeping with the sturdiness of the leather, I doubled the straps, stitching them on the edge, then stitching an opening. You'll need two straps... the reaf one longer and the front one shorter. They should overlap by 6" to 8".

 

 

Here you see the rod inserted, through the rear strap loop.l

 

Finished quiver... Gosh, the arrows shoot well out of it, don't they?

I've cut two extra notches and the pouch's back loops are in those, with the rod thrust through the quiver top, back strap, pouch loops, then front strap. The front strap overlaps the back strap and I've punched holes and laced them together. This overlap will let you change the length of the strap, shortening it in summer when you're shooting in tee shirts and lengthening it in winter when you have a coat on. If you're in real cold country and wear heavy outer stuff, you may want more overlap.

 

 

A happy quiver wearer...

 

Now when I go to the range, my stringer, bow hand glove, tab and armguard are in the pouch, along with wax, dental floss, and, once I have the armguard on, even a sandwich.